Honestly I had never heard of the Cabot Trail before we started planning this trip. But it is supposed to be one of the world’s great roads and sights, and it lives up to its billing.
We booked a campground in Cape Bretons Highland National Park for three nights – giving us time to explore. Two of our three park days were weekend days – a benefit for maximum enjoyment.
We arrived at the park on Saturday August 10, after driving from Antigonish.
Cape Breton is a large island (or series of islands) at the eastern end of Nova Scotia. We accessed it via a causeway, and then after a bit got on the Cabot Trail itself – a road that winds and climbs and falls along the edge of the island and through the huge national park.
One can’t really drive and gaze at the same time, especially pulling a trailer. So we made sure we took turns.
We entered the park late afternoon, and got our passes at the visitor center. [Side note: I’m resolved now to get a hat with the beaver logo that is the symbol of the Canada national park system. Karen thinks it’s not needed.]
We met a mom and adult son who spotted our Maryland plates and we learned she lives in Anne Arundel County a few minutes away from us (and works for SEIU, the union.) We chatted for a few minutes, and we saw them hiking the next day. The world is small.
We immediately pulled into Ingonish Beach and I had a huge smile on my face. The beach is stunning, clean sand protected by large smooth round rocks that look like they’ve been placed by man. But park ranger told us they are natural. A true cove – ridges and cliffs form a 200-degree-plus circle. To our left, Keltic Lodge and Middle Head dominated a cliff.
We unfolded our chairs, sipped a beer, and lounged.
The Broad Cove campground was very nice, and we set up in a quiet unserviced spot. Immediately some boys came over – from Massachusetts. These two young brothers were fascinated with campers, and watched videos about them all the time. The dad told us they had all visited the Happier Camper factory in California. We were happy to show of Prufrock, and they were proud to show their little contraption.
It had a pop-up tent-like structure on the roof, and we’ve been seeing a lot of those on top of cars and trucks. Seems like a new development.
Sunday was a full day on the Cabot Trail. We started with a 6-mile run, then began our drive, 90 kilometers counterclockwise from Ingonish to Cheticamp.
Our first stop: a short hike to a waterfall on the MacIntosh Brook trail.
Then on to the Skyline Trail – which everyone told us we had to. And it was worth it. On a warm afternoon, the clouds had broken and the views from the ridge over the water were spectacular views. Of note: moose protection fences, to keep them out of areas where vegetation is being regrown.
We at dinner in Cheticamp, and had a phone call with our kids, then drove back to our campground, reversing our windy up-and-down route. We had hoped to get some beach time in, but none that day.
Next full day, more chill. Needed to work – good strong signal at Ingonish Beach, so we headed there, and worked from a shaded bench, as pickleball players plinked next to us. Like being at a resort.
Midday run on Middle Head – we thought it was possibly the most beautiful trail we had ever run on.
Dip in a freshwater lake, separated barely from the ocean. Can see the Cape Smokey ski area on the far shore.
On this day we failed with our food choices.
Last daylight hours were spent at Black Brook Beach – another highly recommended spot for good reason. To the left of the beach, around some rocks, was a wonderful hidden waterfall.
A fried food dinner left us bloated. On Monday, some more work at the same beach spot, then departure.
We’d love to spend more time here. We lucked out with a few sunny and warm afternoons, and the cliffs and water all gave a feel of the Mediterranean or Caribbean Islands, right here in North America. Another place we never would have gotten to explore if not for Prufrock.
